How about a quick show of hands. Have you been to La Scala Ristorante yet? It’s been open just about a year now at the corner of 37th and Abercorn. A beautiful pink (coral if you are keeping score) restoration and a great restaurant.
The guess is most of you fall into the ‘I would love to go, but we haven’t made it there yet’ category. You are not alone. It was the answer I got most while chatting with a few people ahead of writing this column.
They’ve noticed. They want to change that.
When I first spoke to Donald Lubowicki and Jeffery Downey about their desire to open an Italian restaurant in Savannah, it was 2013. An Italian concept was on the horizon at One West Victory (The Florence) and Savannah’s most popular Italian at the time (Leoci’s) was beginning to draw some side-eye.
The vision was approachable Italian in a great atmosphere. A festive atmosphere. The vision was an Italian version, if you will, of their already very successful Circa 1875 French Bistro downtown on Whitaker Street.
Circa 1875 is one of the most popular restaurants in town. Especially with the locals. Chef David Landrigan very quietly gets it done in a very tiny kitchen. He’s been doing so for years. It made perfect sense that you could whip out a French/Italian dictionary and recreate some magic down the street. Sounded good to me at any rate.
I learned a long time ago in another lifetime from NASCAR legend Dale Earnhardt that a good driver will never say his car is fast enough. “Will it ever be fast enough?” I asked? “Nope.” He said. Point made.
All these years later, I have yet to meet a restaurant owner say “I’m good. I have plenty of business.” They always want more.
It’s believed the missing part of the puzzle at La Scala is there aren’t enough people stopping by for a quick bite. A glass of wine and a pizza (which are great by the way) perhaps. Too many people think you can only visit La Scala if you are looking to ‘dine.’ They want more people to know that despite being one of the most beautiful spaces in Savannah, they want you to feel comfortable coming in to ‘eat.’
“It’s kinda hard to dumb this down.” Executive Chef Stephen McClain shared during a recent chat in one of their beautifully decorated dining rooms. “This space is exactly what we want it to be. Our menu, is a reflection of the space. We aren’t going to just put out a bunch of red sauce dishes.”
The new Fall menu is approachable. Staples like an Amatriciana, Carbonara and Tagliolini Pommodoro are all there. Chef refers to all of those when he mentions that it is just as easy to stop by for a glass of wine and a bowl of pasta. Especially now that the weather is cooperating.
I will mention the Fileto de Manzo, a 6oz filet with Yukon Gold Potatoes topped with melted provolone and Swiss chard was the best filet I’ve had the pleasure of eating in Savannah. And I’ve had a quite a few. The cheese melted on potato in the oven then browned slightly with a torch before service. Simply outstanding. At $41 it falls right in line with similar dishes around town. If not a smidge less expensive.
“We did really well last Fall.” he said “Summer was a little slow, then the hurricane affected September. But that’s everyone. We know our numbers in here (dining rooms) are going to be ok.”
“We just would love to see more people stopping in to take advantage of our beautiful patio, for example. We think not enough people realize that it is there.”
He has a point there. The restoration at La Scala was thorough. Not visible from the street on a drive-by along Abercorn street, is a beautiful deck with umbrellas and tables back there. It sits just off their bar, which seats 6-7 people. Both perfect casual spaces for a casual bite on any given beautiful evening.
“No one is going to want to come in here in shorts and a t-shirt” chef says, again referring to the restaurants impeccable interior. “And I get that. But out there? Why not?”
To that end, there are discussions going on to host some receptions in their courtyard during this season. Before the weather gets too cold. They’ll be inviting anyone who wants to come enjoy that. Yes, this is a beautiful restaurant, but the vibe they’ve wanted to create from day one was to be as friendly and approachable as the experience at Circa 1875.
Some of it has gotten lost in translation.
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1 thought on “The Curious Case of La Scala”
Thank you Jesse for taking the time to come visit us again, and for sharing your insightful review of La Scala Ristorante. In full disclosure, it’s no secret that you are more than a familiar acquaintance with myself, Chef David Landrigan, and Donald and Jeffrey. I remember meeting you when I was the Sous Chef at Leoci’s Trattoria back in 2008. You have been a long standing supporter of restaurants throughout the Southeast for many years, and you’ve always chronicled your sincere account of the culinary scene with integrity. Not what every chef or restaurant owner wants to hear everytime, but eat and like it, you’re honest! Thanks again for your consideration.