As Savannah’s food scene continues to evolve, the pages of its story are filling in. It has been said here and elsewhere that despite all of the growth and development that we have seen the last 5 or so years, we are really in our infancy when it comes ‘checking off all of the boxes’ in this town -food wise. There are still way too many things we need to eat and love.
That list is up for debate and is a discussion for another time. One of the items on it, however, was a ‘big city’ type seafood spot.
A few months back, we told you about a brand new seafood restaurant that was preparing to open downtown. St. Neo’s Brasserie sits at street level in the brand new Drayton Hotel at the corner of Drayton and Bay Streets. (Formerly Outback Steakhouse for those of you keeping tabs on where in the world)
At the time we told you that we thought St. Neo’s had the potential to be that seafood spot. Yes, we have plenty of restaurants in Savannah that offer seafood. A lot of them do what they do well. But outside of Chive Sea Bar on Broughton Street, we really haven’t had a seafood restaurant target a higher-end demo. Of course, until now.
St. Neo’s Brasserie is that spot. They opened very quietly a few months ago. There were no step and repeat back drop cocktail parties, there were no social media blitzkriegs. In fact, there still haven’t been.
You can say it has just been a continuation of the relationship between Executive Chef Chris Meenan and Ragav Sapra, owner of the entire property.
“It was a very natural build up.” Mr. Sapra says of his relationship with Chef Chris. “It didn’t feel forced.”
They met in New York City. Introduced by a mutual friend. The twist of fate came when they realized chef was looking to make good on a promise to his wife that when they got married, they’d make plans to leave the city. Mr. Sapra was developing a project in Downtown Savannah. Chef’s mom was from Savannah. He was familiar with the terrain, if you will.
It all came together. Rather easily, actually.
“I understood the traditions of the South.” Chef says. “And there is always interest in Southern food.” Not to mention that they thought there was a need at the “top of the market” here when it came to seafood. Indeed.
Savannah box checked.
They describe St. Neo’s as “Casual yet elegant.” Which I believe is fair. No, not the most expensive restaurant in town, but also not likely the kind of place where you’d go for seafood if you are budget conscious.
Brasseries in a traditional sense are full of energy. They can be loud-ish but fun and cater, largely, to their neighborhood. The food is great as are the drinks. It’s not uncommon to see the same folks in there multiple times a week.
I make a point of describing that scene because that is what they are looking to create at St. Neo’s. The prices will tell a lot of Savannah that it is one of those ‘special occasion’ spots. The effort to please as many people as they can will have an increasing number of people stopping in for a bite or a cocktail. Which you absolutely should.
“We want to do beautiful food but also good food.” Chef says. “We’re going to have something for everyone.” That would include the rolling out of a brand new “Bites” menu that is ready to go. “I’m really looking forward to that.” Chef says “There will be some different things on there, including Octopus Hot Dogs.”
Alrighty then.
We had dinner at St. Neo a while back and can truly say that we loved everything we had. Tops for me was my Porcini Crusted Grouper with Eggplant Caviar and Truffle emulsion. I absolutely loved it. The Lamb Carpaccio is a rock star. Steamed Sapelo Island Clams with andouille sausage were delicious and the oysters were some of the best I’ve enjoyed in Savannah.
The only miss for me was the BBQ Shrimp with Worcestershire and Sweet Potato. I will almost always order New Orleans style BBQ Shrimp whenever I see it on a menu. Especially one that looks as good as this one. It’s one of my favorite items all-time. This time, however, it didn’t do it for me. But I am looking forward to trying it again.
The rest of that menu is incredibly inviting. There are other seafood dishes, of course. Steak Frites, a burger and even something for the vegetarians in the house.
“You should offer something more than just a plate of vegetables to people with special diets.” Chef tells me.”Our Mushroom Rotolo and red wine jus has been very popular so far.”
Word has spread around Savannah about the kind of quality seafood you will find at St. Neo’s. I had one chef friend text me a few weeks back that he thought the restaurant was a ‘game changer’ in this city. Strong words, yes, but I knew what he meant.
Options continue to be good. With the announcement of Charleston’s Darling Oyster Bar coming to Savannah and Wilmington Island’s Sundown Lodge, those options will be filling in this city rather nicely. That’s to say nothing of other projects we have heard that are on the horizon.
There is plenty of room for more. I’m a huge fan of both The Optimist in Atlanta and The Obstinate Daughter just outside of Charleston. Outstanding seafood doesn’t have to break the bank. Around here, we just need more. This is a great next step.
So far, the city has welcomed St Neo’s. Which is great to see. Our experience was exceptional. Once you get into the dining options on their absolutely gorgeous rooftop space (smaller but different menu) or their basement bar (no food) you will find yourself enjoying St Neo’s and The Drayton Hotel as a whole. It’s a beautiful space that-sitting on one of the busier corners in the city-will draw you in to spend a little or spend a lot.
Either way, you will Eat It and Like It.
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