UKIYO – All New in Starland

The energy coming from the open kitchen was palpable. In front of it sat a row of invited guests looking to indulge in anything and everything that was coming across the counter.

Way down at the end from my vantage point, was AJ Benacquisto. Executive Chef of Savannah’s newest eatery. Like any orchestra, every person in that kitchen had a role to play. Chef AJ’s job was to make sure it ran smoothly and also step in to help wherever needed.

Everything they dropped in front of us was delicious. Some of it on the menu, some of it not. All of it small plates. A couple of bao buns and a nice-sized bowl of ramen.

Two mornings later, I was sitting in this now very quiet space with chef to find out what it is that could make UKIYO one of Savannah’s culinary hot spots.

Raised in South Florida, Chef tells me he’s been in kitchens since he was 15. By the time he was in his early 20’s he had a veteran chef suggest to him that he leave college and focus on cooking.

“He said, I’m not in the habit of telling people that they should give up on their education but you’re really good at this.” AJ said.

So he jumped in and started taking his lumps. He paid his dues and moved up the culinary ladder. After a few successful stops in Florida and Denver, he applied for a management position in Savannah. He was splitting his time between the front of the house and the kitchen.

“It was a really tough time for me to do something like this. During COVID with masks and everything.” AJ says. “I was in new skin with suits instead of a chef’s coat hanging out with my pirates all night long.”

He quit that job not really knowing what the next step was. In that interim, he created a concept for what he called a “ramen shop” He’d always been fascinated with Asian flavors and Japanese culture. He drew a logo, what the space would look like and played with ideas for the kinds of foods he would like to serve. Perhaps even here in Savannah.

His first interview was for the Executive Chef position at The Collins Quarter, Savannah’s most popular Brunch spot.

“I hate cooking eggs, scrambled blah blah blah”

The interview with Southern Cross’ Hospitality’s Culinary Director went so well, AJ mentioned his desire to one day open a ramen shop. He talked about the drawings he’d made and what his menus would look like.

The Collins Quarter was Anthony Debreceny’s first restaurant. He will tell you he’s as surprised as the next guy that it wasn’t his last. Since then, they’ve opened The Fitzroy, The Deck on Tybee Island and CQ in Forsyth Park. It should be mentioned that he’s about to open an Italian concept on Broughton Street near Bull as well.

Where these two paths cross is at the point where Anthony has wanted to open an Asian concept of some kind for years. His company has snapped up space here and there around town in hopes of finding the right fits and staff. Naturally, AJ got a call back.

“Anthony text me an hour later. Told me he lived in Japan for 18 years and asked me to come back to talk to him.”

“I thought it was a second interview with The Collins Quarter” he says. “I thought we’d talk about the job and maybe some Japanese culture.”

During that interview, Anthony drove AJ to a space he had secured at Bull Street and 39th Street in the heart of Savannah’s Starland District.

“I could see it. I saw the bones. I could see the kitchen. I could see the equipment. It was what I had drawn up. So I pulled out my laptop and said ‘this is it.'” AJ says.

The two visions lined up on the spot. “Anthony said lets do it. I said let’s go.”

A few weeks later, Anthony had a name. UKIYO is loosely translated as ‘living in the moment. Detached from the bothers of life.” They agreed it was perfect for the type of vibe they wanted in here.

“I had an idea for some blasting punk rock and Notorious BIG.” AJ says “You know, the stuff I grew up on. But this is going to be more edgy elegance.”

The menu, like most new spots, will ebb, flow and evolve. The first one I saw had 16 items on it. There will always be items available that aren’t on it too. The idea is to feel approachable to someone who wants an evening out with bites flowing for a couple of hours or someone who just left work wanting to pop in for a bowl of ramen.

“This is a bad ass spot. I want industry people to feel like ‘I’m gonna get great food that’s not expensive.'”

The Charred Edamame with a Bourbon and Tamari Glaze were a perfect snack, for example. As were charcoal grilled skewers of Shishito Peppers, Japanese Eggplant and Jowl and the Chilled Peanut Noodles with apple, spinach, sprouts and dressing.

Scallops are coming in twice a week from Japan. Noodles are sourced from California. The goal here is to make this as authentic as they possibly can, knowing full well of some of the challenges you may run into from lil’ ol’ Savannah, Georgia.

“I just ordered duck wings. Once they come, I’m excited to see what we can do with them.”AJ says.

What you won’t find is sushi. Not any time soon anyway. AJ tells me they want to establish themselves as what he believes they are and that’s Japanese Street Food before being labeled ‘another sushi spot.’

Fair enough.

Clearly AJ and his staff have taken the ball and run with it. But it is also important to mention that you don’t spend 18 years in Japan and not have an idea of what you’d like to see in your first Japanese restaurant. Anthony very clearly does, but he believes he’s found the man to execute his vision.

“We’ve found a happy ground. I’m excited about the direction we are going.”

UKIYO
2224 Bull Street (at 39th)
Savannah, GA 31401

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