For the last handful of years, I’ve become somewhat fascinated by the interest in Cuban cuisine not only here in our area but across the country. The stories I’ve seen are all similar in their own way. A young-ish couple from South Florida decides that they have had enough of what has become of the Miami area. It’s become crowded, it’s become expensive and it’s become increasingly difficult to enjoy a decent living. So they leave and open a restaurant elsewhere.
There are several examples of such eateries you should add to your list. I will share those later. But first things first. The latest is right here in Downtown Savannah. It’s called Cuban Window Cafe and it is fabulous.
The young Cuban couple in question this time are Cynthia Santana and Mike Liberman. They left South Florida during the Spring pandemic shutdown. Their potential landing spots were Savannah, Greenville, South Carolina or Asheville, North Carolina.
“We just kind of liked it here.” Cynthia says.
It should be noted that there was no master plan to open a restaurant. How could there be? The world was shut down. Not exactly the best time to start a new business.
“We were just driving around and realized that there weren’t any Cuban cafes like we had in Miami. No ventanitas.” she says.
Ventanitas. Spanish for small windows. The kind of windows you will find every 5 or 6 blocks in Miami. You walk up, pour yourself a cup of ice cold water from a cooler on the counter and enjoy a shot of espresso and a freshly made pastry or croquette. It’s an afternoon snack or lunch depending on who’s doing the Eating and Liking.
Ventanitas are the stuff of legend in Little Havana. Add an opinionated Cuban Exile eager to speak his mind and the next thing you know, it’s 3 hours later. They were even the subject of an art work by a very popular South Florida artist. If you know, then you know.
“So we drove by and saw this space was empty” Cynthia says of the El Cheapo gas station at 1116 Abercorn Street. If you know the Victorian District, then you’ve seen it a million times. It’s been empty for years.
“I approached the owner and he said no. He wouldn’t rent it to us.” “When I pleaded with him he told me to come back.” Cynthia says. “I had to badger him.”
The persistence paid off, kinda sorta. As you might imagine, the space needed a ton of work. It was almost a complete build out.
“New AC, new sinks, we pretty much built out everything in here.” Mike says “We were meticulous with the city requirements for a restaurant. Everything was built out exactly by the book.” They hit it with some Miami Vice Pink and Teal Blue and they were good to go.
They were rewarded with a permit and opened for business officially last week.
The reception from the community so far has been stellar and rightly so. The food is delicious. The food is exactly the kind of fast casual Cuban those of us that grew up in South Florida grew up on. Lechon (Mojo Marinated Pork), Bistec Palomilla, Fried Plantains, rice, beans, the whole nine. Everything I’ve had I’ve loved, except ironically for the Cuban Sandwich. Mayo is a major party foul for a purist like me. Yellow mustard y pa’lante.
The best part? The prices. Most dinners are $8.50. The most expensive thing on that menu today is $9.50. Most breakfasts are $5. They include bacon, eggs, toast and cuban coffee and milk. I see a lot of take out in their future.
Of course, Cuban Window Cafe is just getting going. There is a plan in place to have a “ventanita” installed just off of their kitchen to make Miami style hit and runs convenient.
As I mentioned earlier, I do find it fascinating how popular Cuban Cuisine has become. Within days of the word getting out about this spot, I got text messages from people prepared to drive ‘all the way downtown’ to try it. So far, the reviews have been consistent. “This is the real deal.”
And no, they don’t serve chips and salsa. Don’t get me started.
I also promised to name a few other Cuban spots you should consider visiting if you find yourself in their vicinity. Of course, here in Savannah we all know about Rancho Alegre Cuban Restaurant. But a few others include:
Hola Cuban Cafe - Fernandina Beach, Florida 1928 Cuban Bistro - Jacksonville, Florida Spanglish Cocina and Bar - Charleston, SC Cuban Gypsy Pantry / Cuban Gypsy Parlor - Charleston, SC or Summerville, SC # # #
