Diary of some book writing research. Charleston Food Crawls coming Spring 2024. Highlights from a recent weekend.
The Tippling House is a renovated house in Charleston’s Elliotborough neighborhood. A happening part of town a very walkable few blocks off of Charleston’s “Upper King” artery. Being that it is an old house, rooms are tight, space is at a premium which doesn’t at all bother me, but the bar area had maybe 8-10 seats?
The wine list was friendly as was the staff. Knowledgeable as well, which is a welcome change to some of the wine bars I’ve visited lately. I don’t need a 3 page essay on what this wine is about, but I would like to know why you think I would like it.
There’s an appealing/smallish snacks menu that I almost dug into until I realized where I was. A block or so away the restaurant that came most recommended to me in conversations leading up to this weekend. But I will absolutely be back to dig in to Tippling a little deeper. I loved the vibe.
I had dinner reservations up the street, but realizing that I was enjoying a wonderful Pinot Noir a block away from Chubby Fish (and it still being before 6pm on a Friday) I thought I’d run over and see if I could squeeze in at the bar for a quick bite.
Chubby Fish was named Best New Restaurant by Bon Appétit in 2019, so they didn’t just show up on the scene. It’s a 50 or so seat gem sitting on the corner of a largely residential neighborhood. Led by Chef James London, the menu changes daily.
This will tell you all you need to know about their following. I walked up to the podium with a young lady looking for a table for 2. It was about 5:45pm. She was told the best they could do was suggest she come back at 9:30pm. They were full.
Better lucky than good department: Part 1
Being that I was solo I asked if I could possibly slip into a spot at the bar for a quick bite and a glass of wine. Less than 10 minutes later, I was seated at the bar watching the kitchen in action. Oysters shucking, fish dishes plating, attention to detail everywhere. The tuna crudo with comeback sauce, tiny potato chips and fried chicken skins was unbelievably good. Then I got to eat a little more.
Better lucky than good department: Part 2
An empty seat at the bar next to me did not stay that way for long. It, too, was filled by a solo diner. Long story short, Pat Martin owns a string of BBQ joints in Middle Tennessee. He knew the owner, he knew the staff. He was informed immediately after he sat that they had orders to feed him the entire menu. Whether he wanted it or not. And they did.
Where I got lucky was after a quick chat, he asked me to help him fight off the wave after wave of food that was coming out of that kitchen. He didn’t have to ask twice.
Oysters, Tempura Triggerfish with a Soy Beurre Blanc, Charred Lamb Ribs and more Tuna Crudo. All of it was delicious but the Roasted Cauliflower “cacio e pepe” with Poblano Crema and covered in a mountain of freshly grated parmesan is a dish I have yet to stop talking about. I could have kept going, but I had to run off for dinner. Pat’s a good guy. I look forward to stopping in on Martin’s BBQ Joint the next time I’m in Nashvegas.
For everything Chubby Fish was with seafood, I was thankful to have reservations at a meat and potatoes spot for dinner. Herd Provisions is part butcher shop, part steakhouse, part bar (with GREAT looking burgers FYI).
A steak and a solid vegetable side was the perfect way to cap the night. The brussel sprouts with a black garlic shoyu were everything my server told me they would be. The Filet and Foie special that night was perfect. A 6oz filet, seared foie, truffle butter and charred broccolini. If you know me, then you know the entire night was simply heavenly. The vibe at Herd is casual, the food is not.
I’m choosing to put these together in one spot but you should know that they are two different locations. One being around the corner from the other.
If you enjoy seafood and have spent any time in Charleston the last few years, then you undoubtedly know about 167 Raw. A self proclaimed “New England Style Oyster Bar” it is every bit that and then some. They made a name for themselves here in Charleston years ago at their original location on Bay Street. Since then, they’ve moved to King Street and created Bar 167 around the corner. Which has it’s own following but also doubles as a ‘waiting restaurant’ for the raw bar. Yes, it is that good.
The wait for a table at 167 Raw on a very cold mid-January Saturday afternoon? 2.5 hours. Worth every second.
The attention to detail on every dish they serve is hard to match in this town. Some may try, not all succeed. Raw Bar of course, daily crudos, classic lobster rolls and so much more. Incidentally, a few years ago I enjoyed a scallop roll at 167 Raw (Like a lobster roll but seared scallops) and it remains to this day one of the best sandwiches I have ever had.
While we waited around the corner, we had exceptional service at Bar 167. That featured an absolutely delicious Espresso Martini shot and a Spicy Margarita that would rival any you’ve ever had. The wine list is approachable and the scene comfortable and fun for the lunch crowd. Perfect day drinking spot with some great eats. Of course, they are open for dinner as well.
Malagón is one of Charleston two most popular Tapas spots. The other being Estadio down the street. I picked Malagón because they are open during the day. Estadio is dinner only.
As is the case with a traditional Tapería, there is no ‘bar’ to speak of. Only wine and lots of it. The traditional small plates of meats and cheeses are designed to have you order a few and graze with your party. The fresh bread baked in house was every bit as hearty as they promised it would be. Perfect for dipping in what was left of our lamb bites. They also have a ‘grab and go’ market inside featuring a ton of items you just won’t find anywhere else around here. This was a hit and run, but I did enjoy it enough to want to return and spend an afternoon working my way through that menu.
We were almost done with our eating for the day, but not before we tried to squeeze in to the bar at Charleston’s Signtature high-end seafood restaurant, The Ordinary. Most people are very familiar with it.
I had been told that their Fried Oyster Slider bar snack was required eating in Charleston. I’d never tried them before. We walked up when they opened at 5pm hoping for a quick squeeze into the bar, and were told it would be at LEAST an hour wait. And you can’t stay there to wait. There’s no room for you if you’d like to enjoy a beverage while passing the time.
Enter Félix.
Félix is a very comfortable brasserie next door to The Ordinary. I’d been warned about their truffle fries by more than one person and I saw plenty of them around the bar. Eating here was going to have to wait. We had oysters to enjoy next door.
What I did enjoy at Felix was a perfect Espresso Martini. I have them maybe once or twice every year or so and apparently today was the day. I never have two. That day I did. I’d recommend that cocktail from Felix to anyone looking for some afternoon delight. Perfect for a hot summer Charleston day. The food I saw looked fantastic. The Chicken Sandwich I’m told could be the best in the city. I look forward to finding out next visit.
They bill themselves as the Fancy Seafood Oyster Hall, and it is. One large room filled with dark wood and soft lighting isn’t what you imagine when you think seafood restaurant and raw bar, but it is gorgeous. We got seats at the raw bar, which was perfect. That Crispy Oyster Slider I told you about? As advertised. Nuoc Cham (Vietnamese dipping sauce), Fresno pepper mayo on a Hawaiian roll. Very possibly, in fact likely, the best bite I had all day.
If you haven’t noticed, we had many. The prepared oysters were simply exceptional as well. The entire experience was everything I thought and hoped it would be. You can seafood tower yourself into a coma at The Ordinary, or you can sit at the bar and nosh, which is what we did. I cannot recommend it enough.
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