We all know them. Italian food snobs. They either spent time in a big city up north, or they have Italian grandparents, or they grew up with Italian neighbors. Something in their life made them an authority on what “real” Italian food should be. Nevermind that you enjoy your favorite Italian restaurant. They will tell you they’ve been there and would rather make Italian food at home for an authentic meal.
I am the same way when it comes to Cuban food.
For those of you that don’t know, I am part Cuban. My dad was Cuban. My mom is Puerto Rican. That mixture is, without question, candela, but I was raised primarily in Miami with my Cuban family. I am a huge fan of all things Puerto Rican, but when asked, I say I am Cuban. The Spanish I speak is mostly with a Cuban dialect. The dishes I cook most are Cuban. And for the record, I can cuss someone out in both Cuban and Puerto Rican. It’s a gift.
Speaking of those dishes, I usually throw down a Cuban feast twice a year. Once on Christmas Eve (Noche Buena). That is our traditional celebration. And some other random day during the year when I have a free Saturday and feel like cooking all day. I very much enjoy cooking. It’s having a full day free that keeps me from doing it more often. The point is, I get my Cuban food fix at home. I don’t go out for Cuban for a number of reasons.
Call me crazy, but I have a problem with someone making Cuban food that isn’t Cuban or at least understands Cuban influences. I have visited Cuban restaurants around Florida owned by Mexican families, owned by Domicans and other nationalities in Latin America. Frankly, I have yet to find one that wows me. Are they good? Sure. Great? Definitely not. I’d rather stay at home and save a few bucks.
I’ve been on a mission lately searching for great Cuban food. A chef on Broughton Street tipped me off to a place in Hinesville that he enjoys. D&M Hispanic Restaurant on General Screven Way in Hinesville has been there for nine years. Owned by a very nice Dominican family. Cuban, Puerto Rican, and Dominican dishes. I enjoyed it very much. Definitely worth putting on your radar if you are in or visiting Liberty County. However, I found a Cuban gold mine that I need to share. A tiny drive, yes, but if you are looking for something different to do on a lazy Saturday, you need to make that drive to Fernandina Beach and visit Hola! Cuban Cafe.
Now, let’s just be clear, Fernandina Beach is right over the border from Georgia. Literally three miles over the border, first exit. Make a left and go to Amelia Island. The historic district on Amelia is beautiful, charming, and picturesque. LOADED with history. Spanish American War, Revolutionary War, a world away from the Colonial history we have in Savannah. But back to the food…
How I found out about Hola! isn’t really important. Suffice it to say when you hear “Cuban Cafe” on Amelia Island, you gotta wonder. Real deal or tremendo paquete?
This is real deal.
Tucked away on a side street in Fernandina’s Historic District is a tiny little shop. My guess is their “dining room” which also serves as the counter and coffee maker (of course it does) has not more than 11-12 seats in it. On this afternoon, the room was full of soccer moms enjoying a cafecito or a sandwich. And why shouldn’t they? They are nothing short of spectacular.
The sandwiches range in price from $5-$8. Black beans are $2 (more on those later). Our tab for two of us (both drinking water) was $41. Think I was determined to try it all? Pues claro.
The biggest pet peeve I have with attempts at Cuban Sandwiches are the lack of proper bread. Hate to break it to you, but of all the great things they do at Publix, offer “Cuban Bread” is not one of them. Blech. It is so hard to find real Cuban bread outside of Miami or Tampa in Florida. Orlando is definitely a player in that department now. But otherwise? Spotty at best.
The Media Noche Sandwiches (essentially Cubans but on sweeter bread) were perfect. Pork and ham were moist. Cheese and pickles were just enough to make it real. No sign of mayonnaise anywhere.
My Pan Con Lechon (Marinated Pork Sandwich on Cuban Bread) was as good as some of the best I’ve had in Miami. You know authentic when you taste it and this was every bit as much.
Black beans are a tricky proposition. 10,000 people in Cuba, you’ll find 15,000 different ways to make them. Doesn’t make anyone’s the “wrong way”, just different. Same with Shrimp & Grits or Brunswick Stew in the South. These black beans were the best I’ve had outside of Miami. Better than mine. There, I said it! And I am pretty darn proud of my black beans. Hey, it happens.
Marisol is the wife and co-owner of the cafe. She is from Miami (attended the sister high school of mine, actually) and tells us she agreed to leave home with her husband only if she could “bring Miami with me”. Boy did she. Now you get to Eat It and Like It.
There is a courtyard with plenty of outdoor seating and plans to add daily specials to the menu. But for now, Hola! is just sandwiches, handmade pasteles (Ay Dios Mio!) and a few side dishes. Croquetas, Frijoles, and Tostones.
After I dropped $41 on lunch, I bought more to go. Yeah, I had to bring some of this home with me. I can still taste it. I will be back there soon. It’s a quick drive, it’s a beautiful scene, and it’s about ten minutes from some very quiet beaches. Yeah, works for me.
Pero Caballeros, que esperan?
Hola! Cuban Cafe
117 Centre Street
Fernandina Beach, FL 32034
130 miles from downtown Savannah.
See you on TV.
Jesse
