The Changing Face of Savannah’s Food Scene

It wouldn’t take a 3 day audit on my time to know how much we invest here in
everything that’s new on Savannah’s food scene. It’s significant. Deservedly so. I’ve
mentioned in this space more than once that at any given time we could count a dozen or
more new eateries that are planned to open here in our city at some point in the not too
distant future. It is also fair to say that this is probably the fastest growth in Savannah’s
storied history.

And all I am referring to is restaurants.

That’s saying nothing about the number of hotels and apartment complexes being
squeezed into every nook and cranny they can find in and around our Historic Landmark
District.

The good news is the skyline is unlikely to change dramatically for reasons I will leave to
someone else. The bad news is the landscape is absolutely changing right before our
eyes. Very dramatically if you ask some and they aren’t too thrilled about it.

“It’s just not the same down here anymore.” Is how Steve Llewelyn put it when I talked
to him a few weeks ago about his decision to close his Soda Pop Shoppe on Bull Street
downtown.

The building has been in his family for years. How many of you remember Blimpies
Subs on the corner of Bull and State years ago? That was in Steve’s family as well.
“We don’t see the same people,” he said.

He’s right. As big money comes to develop some of the properties that had been ignored
downtown for many years, you are getting a lot of people choosing to move their offices
out of downtown. That means fewer lunch time chats over a chicken salad sandwich with
the attorney down the street that you’ve known for years. Instead, they are being replaced
by visitors from Ohio or Tennessee who are only interested in the cheapest eats they can
find.

And they’ll still complain about prices. I’ve seen it happen. Don’t get me started.

Michael Meeks set up his shop, Goosefeathers Café and Bakery near Ellis Square close to
2 decades ago. He’s done very well with it. It is one of downtown Savannah’s most
popular breakfast spots. The line out the door will tell you that. He’s been dreaming of
his plot of land in Metter for a few years now. A couple of years ago as we were
climbing out of ‘2020’, he said something to me that I’ve heard a few times since.

Goosefeathers will remain a fixture on Barnard Street downtown after being sold

“It’s a young man’s game down here now”

Mr. Meeks finally sold Goosefeathers this month. He’s moving out to Metter. “Golden
Years” he calls them. Gerald Schantz on Tybee Island did the same. Last year he sold the
very popular and eclectic Pig and Shrimp shack he created out there. Zunzi’s is now
taking over.

There are several other examples of what we are talking about here. But you get the
picture. Or do we need to bring up Krispy Kreme on Skidaway Road again? I sure hope
not.

Have we bummed you out enough? Yeah, I get it. The irony is, I’m about as excited
about what is happening in our city as anyone can be. For every Michael, Steve or
Gerald out there, there is a new wave of young, hungry, passionate people looking to do
great and creative things here in Savannah.

Clinton Edminster, a fixture on our civic scene in Savannah, is as we speak, days away
from building out a very no frills café on Waters Avenue near Victory Drive. A corridor
that is on the uptick after being largely ignored for decades.

Two young men from Los Angeles, one of them a Hunter Army Vet, have built out a
gorgeous rooftop venue at MLK and Charlton with their own two hands. VICI Rooftop is
beautiful. You should take a look. Brunch is coming there soon.

On Broughton Street, a celebrated New York chef , Christopher Meenan, is building out a
grab and go café and bakery. Dotties Market should be open this Spring.

Of course, there are more.

That doesn’t make everyone happy. I most certainly get that. If I had a nickel for every
time someone said “I miss old Savannah.” From my seat though, change is good. Growth
is good. Progress is good. Without it, we’d still be waiting for a guy to pull up on a horse
twice a week with correspondence from your long lost relative in Garden City.

Count me among the crowd who is excited about what is happening in our city. I’ve seen
it from almost the ground up since arriving in 1999. I live downtown. I see the ‘visitors’
regularly. Yes, I’m irritated when they stand in the middle of the street taking pictures at
Chippewa Square without any regard to vehicular traffic. I get it.

But I am also glad they are here. Spending their money here in one of the most
picturesque neighborhoods in America. That is a fact.

Is that going to help some of you feel better about what is happening in Savannah right
now? Probably not, and that’s OK. As long at the people in charge of responsible growth
do what they are tasked with doing, I think we are going to be just fine.

What’s in store for Savannah in the next 5-10 years is going to be wonderful and I can’t wait.

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