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Wings and The “Big Game”

I will readily admit, the first recipe I gave some thought to once we had opponents set for the NFL Championship game was a chicken wing recipe. I have the day off for the first time in a couple of years, so naturally your mind wanders. “What can I make?” Big spread? Low key? Beer? Wine? I planned the party out in my head but I had to have chicken wings. I mean it’s the “Big Game” right? Of course. I am going to make my wings at home using a recipe you must have (more on that in a second). Our time together today is going to be spent telling you why you are going to be spending more for those same wings if you are headed out to watch the game on Sunday. Or on Monday or Tuesday.  The price of chicken wings is flying sky high and it’s gotten a lot of people’s attention.

Jesse Blanco Chicken WiA popular sports bar owner in Savannah tells me the price of wings around “Big Game” time is just brutal. Demand, understandably, goes up and the supply out there runs low. Economics 101 means if you have to have them, you are going to pay more for them. It’s just the way it is. Well, when the cost is hovering around $1.72 a pound already (up 8 percent) and it bumps up more than that, well, there isn’t really much of a profit in the wing. Once you factor in storage, prep, staffing and sauces, it’s easy to see why. Sports bars are counting on you to put down your body weight in draft beer. Large profit margins. Wings? Not so much. “We can’t change the price on the menu just for that day”, I’m told. “So we just take the hit.” It’s pretty common practice, not just with wings really. It’s called running a restaurant and keeping tabs on your costs. Add to that, the fact that Americans are consuming wings at a record pace, and we have a flappin’ problem.

According to the National Chicken Council, Americans will consume 1.25 billion wings on Super Bowl Sunday. A figure similar to last year. Can you even fathom that? It’s almost comical really. Here’s another part of the problem. You’ve seen those oversized chicken breasts and other parts at the grocery store, right? Sure, farmers can fatten your bird up and get you more pure pound of chicken, but at the end of the day, the chicken still only has two wings. So no matter how plump that bird is, the number of wings won’t change. That affects the entire process. That affects the price. A representative from a Chicago based research firm told Bloomberg News recently that “wings are customizable”. That is absolutely true. The same way you will find them at your local sports pub, you may find a fancy high end version somewhere else. The most commercial of wing spots can offer you fifty or so flavors, so there is something really out there for everyone. That makes them more appealing, that increases the demand, that increases the price. Ok, enough voodoo economics for one day. I don’t know about you but it is giving me a headache. Go out, enjoy your wings. Root, root, root for your team of choice and don’t let the price of those wings deflate your enthusiasm. (Sorry, had to work that in). Now, as for those chicken wings I am going to make? Very simple story behind those. They are quite simply the best chicken wings I have ever had.

Chicken WingsJames Levens works in the kitchen at The Florence. One of the most talented guys in this city.  I met James last year when he worked at the very short-lived Sparetime on MLK.  One night I was in for some munchies and ordered the General Tso Wings. Yes, Chinese flavor profile. I thought, “What the heck, I’ll try them.” The best chicken wings I have ever had. Period. Went back, had them again, then… badda beep, badda boop, badda bop, they were closed. The wings were gone.

James popped up last Summer working with Executive Chef Kyle Jacovino at The Florence. One of two Italian spots to open in Savannah last summer. I’m not expecting to find General Tso Chicken Wings on a fantastic Italian menu any time soon. Won’t happen. So I shot James a text, hoping he’d share his secrets. Without hesitation, he did. You can find that recipe right here but it comes with a warning. This is a time consuming endeavor and SOME skill is required. If you’re afraid of your stove or only turn your oven on the final Thursday in November, this may not be something to just whip up to impress your significant other. James flat out told me, “It’s not easy.”

I’m going for it. Go Seahawks!

See you on TV.

Jesse Blanco

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