The comparisons have been made zillions of times. Charleston and Savannah, that is. How are they different? How are they similar? Which is better? Which is prettier? Which is more unique? Which is more exclusive and which is warmer (hospitality-wise, not temperature). Admittedly, I didn’t know all that much about Charleston before a few years ago. I knew it was a hot bed for great food. I knew it had its own definition of Southern charm. I knew it looked and felt more like a “city” than Savannah does. If for no other reason, Savannah’s charm rides on the back of natural beauty. Before the summer of 2012, I hadn’t visited Charleston in a number of years. Yes, years. This was before Eat It and Like It and before I had become obsessed with culinary travel. Since then, I’ve been back a dozen or so times. Probably more, I can’t remember. I’ve driven there for dinner and back to Savannah in same night. I’ve day tripped and I’ve spent weekends. Charleston is a glorious city.
We had talked about doing an episode in Charleston for quite some time. Obviously, any television show about food in the South is going to spend a good bit of time in Charleston. As I write this, plans are being made for another trip in the next few weeks. There is that much to Eat and Like, no question.
So, how exactly did Charleston become this world-class culinary city? Well, the answer is fairly simple. Johnson and Wales is one of the most prestigious culinary institutions in America. In 1984, they opened a campus in Charleston. Upon graduating, a lot of their students stayed in town. The beach was nearby, the weather cooperated most of the year and it was a short drive to most anywhere in the South. Charleston’s food scene began to grow. Keep in mind that these things don’t just happen. 1984 was a long time ago. It took years of dedication to that fine city for the culinary scene to build its reputation. A reputation they are proud of and enjoy today. Toss a golf ball out of a car window and you’ll find a fantastic chef, a creative culinary mind, or someone with a passion for food. It’s in that city’s fabric now…all waiting for you to come and enjoy.
All of that said, we spent a lot of time talking to the good people of Charleston ahead of this episode. They have the same problems that any other city has, but they continue to grow and develop. One chef told us he heard that fifty new restaurants were coming on line soon in Charleston. Hard to believe. But then again, maybe not. If tourists will flock by the millions to Charleston to do nothing but eat, then you can count on someone out there thinking they can do it better than someone already in business. And good for them.
In 2002, Johnson and Wales closed up shop in Charleston and moved to Charlotte. There is a vibrant scene in Charlotte as well. One day we’ll get to it. What that school left behind on the coast is nothing short of wonderful. A vibrant, passionately Southern city with an appetite to match it. Whether it’s burgers or bakeries, or something a little more “elevated”, Charleston has it all. Excellent versions of it all.
During our thirty-minute visit to that great city, we visit the following:
Wild Flour Pastry – Much like Back in the Day Bakery in Savannah, only a lot smaller. Chef/Owner Lauren Mitterer says she wants her guests to feel like everything was “made with love”. Her obsession for freshness and quality is your ticket to some of the most amazing baked treats you will find in Charleston. Wild Flour Pastry is hidden away in a residential neighborhood, just off of downtown. That doesn’t mean you won’t find a line time and again.
Rutledge Cab Company – You walk into Rutledge and you know you are in a locals hang out. From the burgers and fries to breakfast anytime, Rutledge Cab Company was created to appeal to everyone. The uber foodie tourists will find it but for the most part the tourists are down at the Market or the Battery, making reservations at Husk or F.I.G. Not that there is anything wrong with that, but Rutledge is a departure from all of that. One of the owners is actor Bill Murray, who does pop in from time to time and steals fries from the guest’s plates. Yes, it’s happened.
The Macintosh – Memorial Day 2012, I was in Charleston for the day with my daughter. Having a quick chat with a friend who lives outside of Charleston about where I should go for dinner, she said “Oh my, there’s this new place called The Macintosh. You have to try it”. I waited a few hours for them to open at dinner time and my view of North King Street has never been the same. One of the best meals I’ve had anywhere. We’ve since been back several times, and every time it is perfect. The menu is rustic and simple, but definitely pushing some envelopes. That menu changes every day too. Without question, one of my favorite restaurants in the South.
Butcher and Bee – In the episode, I say that this spot might be one of my favorite places in America for lunch. They’ve already been featured in any number of magazines for their great food. The name of the game here is the sandwich and the art thereof. One side of the operation is a bakery. A veerrry serious bakery. Front of the house is dedicated to amazing flavors for carnivores, vegans, or anything in between. Just don’t look for pizzas. The owner is also part owner of Mellow Mushrooms in Charleston but isn’t going to make them at Butcher and Bee. The chalkboard menu changes constantly. I’ve returned looking for a favorite and been out of luck, only to have a new favorite. Best lunch I’ve found anywhere. Yeah, it’s that good.
See you on TV.
Jesse
