Sometimes June of 2014 feels like it was 30 years ago. Yet that is the moment in time I point to when I am asked (which is frequently) ‘where did all of this come from?’ The moment on the calendar I’m referring to was the same month that Savannah’s food scene began its journey toward something far more progressive than where we were, say, 5 short years ago. That was the month Hugh Acheson opened The Florence on Victory Drive. Shortly thereafter, Pacci Savannah opened inside of The Brice Hotel on Bay Street at Houston. That hotel had enjoyed great success and nostalgia with any number of Savannah residents as The Mulberry Inn owned and operated by Holiday Inn Hotels. Work had begun months before, obviously, but this was the point we got a peek at where Savannah was going. The Florence rose from an overlooked warehouse at an overlooked intersection (except for election season when everyone stuck their signs in the ground). The Mulberry got that long overdue makeover where it transitioned from a spot where you could, perhaps, enjoy a tall glass of Chatham Artillery Punch to a space where Hollywood’s elite have made time Eat It and Like It. Which it is now. Finally, now comes word that celebrity chef Sean Brock is coming to town with a version of his Husk Restaurant. With a special homage to the Kentucky Derby next week, I think it’s time to say if June 2014 was the start of the race, then last week’s news officially marks Savannah having reached turn one.
For those that missed the announcement last week, it had been rumored for quite some time that Sean Brock’s business partner, David Howard had been kicking tires around Savannah. Well over a year actually. The whispers at one point got so loud that I asked Brock himself at the Atlanta Food and Wine Festival if they had been looking around Savannah. Clearly there was denial, and that is certainly understandable, but if you pull out and look at the big picture it was a perfect fit for someone looking to get in on the ground floor of an up and coming food city. Which Savannah most certainly is. Those of us that follow the southern food scene know all about Husk. Reaction on social media was overwhelmingly positive. There were a couple of people, however, who clearly don’t understand the magnitude of this type of news and that’s just fine. I had one gentleman on Facebook say “It better be cheap and fast if they want to be open more than six months.” Which reminded me of another friend of mine who cracked when one of our newer restaurants opened recently “Geez, not another one of those overpriced, overrated places with small portions and big prices. Do you know how much food I can get at Cracker Barrel for $28?”
That’s ok. I love her just the same. I just understand that not everyone is going to get it.
In 2011, Husk Charleston was named Bon Appetit Magazines Best New Restaurant. In 2014, Husk Nashville got a similar nod from Esquire Magazine. There is a whole other level to great food that is working its way into our beautiful city. Prices be damned. Are these places that good or are they the bi-product of hype machines and fancy PR firms? If I can be perfectly honest, I have visited Husk Charleston twice and was a bit underwhelmed. It certainly wasn’t bad by any stretch, but I expected more. I’ve also had the pleasure of visiting Husk Nashville twice. Those meals I’d walk over hot coals barefoot to enjoy again. Yes, it was that amazing. Yes, that is coming to Savannah. Prices? Well, they are what they are, because more times that not, they are extremely reasonable.
The Grey opened on MLK Junior Blvd in Savannah just before Christmas of 2014 to rave reviews. I’ve joked with Executive Chef Mashama Bailey that she’s been in more magazines than the President. The accolades she and Owner/Partner John Morsiano have received over the last year plus have been well deserved. You can’t put a price tag on the publicity that they have brought to this city. The Grey is now growing into its own here in Savannah. And it isn’t always about high-end meals, unpronouncable ingredients and wine. Not at all. The Grey offers fantastic lunch service. Their burger is priced actually a little lower than most other places downtown and its a lot better. The Grey also offers Saturday afternoon lunches on their patio for $7. What about dinner? Did you know that you can enjoy multiple courses at The Grey family style on the 3rd Sunday of every month for about $40? This isn’t about prices, it’s about great food. The more of it there is, the more this city and its food scene will grow. Now we add one more to the mix.
“Husk will add another layer of quality and more people who care deeply about food and who are trying hard. Hugh (Acheson) and Kyle (Jacovino) did it when they took a chance on bringing their viewpoint here with The Florence and Zach (Shultz) and Brandon (Whitestone) did the same with Cotton & Rye.” says Morisano, echoing a sentiment shared by Acheson when I reached him last week. “People want to be challenged with good food.” Acheson says. “They are demanding better and better all of the time. This fits the bill on good growth. We continue to need good food and see a growth in talent and skill sets.” he adds.
The chefs I talk to in this city absolutely welcome more quality, more passion and more creativity. I have mentioned that in this column before. The better food we see in this city overall, the better it will ultimately be for everyone. “Sean is an immensely talented chef. “Acheson says. “This is great for the city and for the food community.”
“What is important to us,” adds Morisano “is that the folks who set up shop here care deeply about food and service. Sean Brock is, without question, that guy and Husk will be a tremendous addition to Savannah’s growing reputation as a food destination. Not to mention that those of us in Savannah who love to eat no longer have to road trip to get Sean’s food and that is a giant win.” I really can’t argue with that.
A couple of weeks ago I was enjoying some sushi at 39 Rue de Jean (yes, sushi. It’s very good) and I took it upon myself to do some informal math on the number of restaurants that have opened since that June 2014 marker I like to drop. Again, I roughly counted 13. 39 Rue was one certainly. As was Cotton and Rye, The Collins Quarter, The Grey and others. Thirteen more kitchens on the landscape. Then I counted the ones that I know are coming in the future. That list included Prohibition on MLK adjacent to The Grey, The Vault (which is now open), The Atlantic at Victory and Drayton and a few more that I know of. I didn’t even count any going into the hotels that are being built. That construction project on Drayton Street adjacent to Parker’s Market? That is going to be a hotel. Another hotel is expected at Montgomery near Liberty Streets downtown. The Kessler Corporation is planning to break ground in June on their Power Plant project on the west end of River Street at MLK. Need I go on? They are being built because they know they can fill them. At a premium price as well. I would expect those hotels to have restaurants. All of those visitors need to eat, and they will. For good measure, I will toss in the success and growth of our cities signature food event, the Savannah Food and Wine Festival.
Now we add another talented chef to the mix at 12 West Oglethorpe. That building has been sitting there empty since before a fire I believe in Fall of 2008. It was pretty bad. For the better part of the last 2 years crews have been working on it. Cleaning it up and preparing it, ultimately, for what it will be next. Another jewel in Savannah’s quickly growing culinary crown.
See you on TV,
Jesse
